Until an acquaintance pointed it out to me, I hadn’t noticed that there’s something eerily missing from Starbucks, namely the sound of beans grinding. Starbucks now uses a push-button system of some sort, to make their product even more aggressively mediocre than it already is. There is no prospect of greatness in any coffee from Starbucks, but neither is there the prospect of failure. There is just sweet, sweet boredom.
I googled a bit, on the well-known website Google.com, and found a decent argument for the positive effects of Starbucks. (Ignore the bit about its being written by a libertarian. Normally that would give me hives as well.) The strongest argument seems to be that Starbucks has introduced people to new kinds of coffee, from which they can then branch out to other, better stuff (like Murky Coffee, say), and that Starbucks is just one step in a long sequence in which Americans have moved away from, say, Maxwell House to higher-end Starbucks stuff. Nick Cho of Murky describes what the third stage in the evolution will address:
If wine was sold the way coffee is usually sold today, you’d go to a store and see a row of five to twelve bottles, with labels that say, “FRENCH WINE,” “AMERICAN WINE,” “ITALIAN WINE,” “AUSTRALIAN WINE,” etc. No vineyard or winery name, no vintage year, no nothing. Just country of origin, and that’s it.
The next step, so they say, is to make coffee into a real artisan product.
Adam and I, incidentally, lament the lack of artisanal coffee in Boston. I was deeply saddened to note that one of my favorite near-downtown coffeeshops in Boston, Torrefazione Italia (at the top of Newbury Street, across from The New England and a block or so from the Public Garden), was bought by Starbucks and then promptly shut down. Bostonians of a certain age remember the Coffee Connection fondly. I also remember fondly that there was a time when the New York Times would bother to describe Starbucks as “a 300-store, specialty coffee chain based in Seattle”. As of ‘98, Starbucks was planning to invade Italy; until my friend Laura told me recently that it failed, I had no idea of the project’s status.
I’d love to start a little hole-in-the-wall espresso joint in downtown Boston — barely large enough to contain a coffee counter; maybe something the size of Chacarero, where you can get the singularly best lunch in downtown — that just makes good espresso drinks and nothing more. Real estate would still be expensive, of course, and labor costs would have to be kept to a minimum by only keeping the place open during business hours. Maybe eventually it could stay open longer hours, but in order to do so it would have to be in some place that doesn’t go dead at night (like Downtown Crossing) or dead during the day (like any purely residential area).
All of this somehow seems connected to a New Yorker article from a couple months ago on the increased mechanization of baby delivery. Caesarean sections seem to make pregnancy safer, so the article says, but they present their own problems and take much of the artistry out of being a doctor. C-sections exist because medicine has become an industry. I’ve spoken with a few women who’ve delivered babies by now, and the story is frighteningly similar from case to case:
- doctor gets exceedingly cautious and induces delivery
- induction doesn’t get baby out, and mother’s muscles now can’t push
- doctor performs C-section
- on first night in the hospital, baby goes into nursery with all the other babies
- mother, being exhausted, can’t get over to the nursery, and for whatever reason doctors won’t bring the baby to her
- since the doctors haven’t given her and the baby time to adjust to one another, the baby hasn’t learned how to breast-feed from her
- doctors apply great pressure and guilt to the mother, telling her that she is being irresponsible to her baby by not giving the baby formula — even though the only reason it needs formula is that they’ve not let it learn how to breast feed
And so it goes.
In general, I don’t know how to reply to the arguments that all of this industrialization — of everything from coffee to food to birth — is ultimately good. I do see the benefits, of course; the American food supply may well be safer because we can concentrate our food inspectors on one giant factory rather than 10,000 farms. More to the point, industrialization is the reality, and an industry like medicine has to respond appropriately: it can’t expect that doctors will all be able to learn intricate intra-uteral baby-rotation techniques. Or can it? I don’t know enough about the industry, but I have to wonder whether industrialization makes people forget that any third way is possible.
Also, 50 years ago it seems like most American mothers gave their babies formula, because somewhere along the line we came to believe that formula could do the job better than breast milk, which has had several million years to evolve to the perfection of nutrition that it is. The mindset that could believe this has always fascinated me. Are we going to look back on the spread of C-sections in the same way? I realize that it’s in some ways different from breast-milk-versus-formula, but it has enough similarities that I wonder.
In general, some industrialization is obviously good, in the limited sense of standardizing procedures. It’s good for doctors to wash their hands, sterilize their instruments, etc; I’ve heard that American surgeons are always famous for backing into doors rather than walking straight through them, because they’ve been trained not to touch handles before going into surgery. All these procedures are good. It needn’t follow that industrializing everything in the medical process is a good idea. We might get 90% of the sanitation benefits, and none of the dehumanization, if we stopped the industrialization somewhat earlier. But that’s probably impossible, of course; industrialization probably becomes an all-consuming habit (ideology?) like anything else.
P.S.: I should note that in conversation with Friend Laura, I’ve become suspicious that maybe these Big Scary Doctor stories are more true in cities than they are little towns in Vermont, such as the one where she’ll be delivering her baby in early 2007. That seems like a worthwhile caveat.