Hello everyone! It has been a while. It’s been 8 years, basically. Things that have changed since then:

• I’ve had two kids.
• I have less time to read than I did in 2018 (see the part about the kids, just above)

Things that were true in 2018 that I might not have remarked upon at the time:

• I’m married (see above about the kids)
• I’m vegetarian (that started in 2010 or 2011)
• We celebrate Passover

All of this is connected. And I’ve wrapped everything up with a very nice bow below: my wife hacked together an absolutely delicious brisket recipe that hits a lot of the same notes as meaty brisket, while being totally veg. The world needs to know about this, goddammit. I’ve included it below.

I’ll write more, probably about books, soon. One of my hopes (it feels a bit precious to call them “resolutions”) is that I’ll get to write more this year. I had Claude Code put together a git-and-vim based Markdown workflow for posting to WordPress, which I hope will reduce the friction in writing and posting. So: more soon, with any luck.

The Ultimate Vegetarian “Umami-Bomb” Brisket

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Ingredients

The Aromatics & Vegetables

• 3 lbs Yellow Onions: Halved and sliced 1/4 inch thick (about 8 medium).
• 1 lb Mushrooms: Preferably Shiitake or Cremini (Baby Bella), quartered.
• 1 to 1.5 lbs Carrots: Peeled and cut into large 2-inch chunks.
• 10 cloves Garlic: 6 cloves smashed, 4 cloves thinly sliced.
• Oil: 3–4 tbsp neutral vegetable oil.

The Umami & Tomato Concentrates

• 2 tbsp Tomato Paste: (For thickness and deep savory flavor).
• 1 cup Tomato Puree: (For the classic “brisket” tang).
• 2 tbsp White or Yellow Miso Paste: (The fermented salt component).
• 2 tbsp Soy Sauce or Tamari: (For the “beefy” dark color).

The Braising Liquids & Spices

• 3.5 cups Water (or low-sodium beef-flavored vegetarian broth).
• 1 cup Dry Red Wine (e.g., Cabernet or Merlot).
• 2 tbsp Balsamic Vinegar.
• 1.5 tbsp Brown Sugar or Date Syrup.
• 1 tsp Smoked Paprika.
• 1/2 tsp Dried Thyme.
• 2 Bay Leaves.
• Black Pepper: Generous amounts of freshly ground.

Other:

• Beyond Meat Steak Tips

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Instructions

1. The Long Onion Melt (45 Minutes)

Heat oil in a large Dutch oven over medium-low. Add onions and a pinch of salt. Cook for 40–45 minutes, stirring occasionally. They should be dark, jammy, and sweet. If they stick, deglaze with a splash of water and scrape the bottom.

2. The Mushroom & Garlic Base (10 Minutes)

Add mushrooms and the 6 smashed garlic cloves. Increase heat to medium. Sauté until mushrooms are browned and have shrunk significantly.

3. The Double-Tomato Caramelization (10 Minutes)

Add the 2 tbsp tomato paste, 1 cup tomato puree, 4 sliced garlic cloves, smoked paprika, thyme, and black pepper.

• The Goal: Stir frequently for about 8–10 minutes. You want the tomato paste and puree to “fry” together until they turn a dark, rusty brick-red and become very thick. This removes the “raw” tomato taste and develops deep umami.

4. The Deglaze

Pour in red wine and balsamic vinegar. Scrape the bottom of the pot thoroughly. Let it bubble for 3–5 minutes until the sharp smell of alcohol is gone.

5. The Hard Reduction (60–90 Minutes)

Add water, sugar/syrup, and bay leaves. Bring to a boil, then reduce to a steady simmer. Leave the lid off.

• At 45 minutes of simmering: Add the large carrot chunks.
• Continue simmering until the liquid is reduced by about 50% and looks like a rich, glossy gravy.

6. The Final Umami Whisk

Whisk in the miso paste and soy sauce. Taste the sauce. It should be savory, “beefy,” and slightly sweet from the onions.

7. Adding the Faux Meat

• Beyond Steak: If time, sear from frozen separately and then add in the final few minutes only to reheat.