DTLA’s Lydia Clarke sometimes says that the Beurre de Baratte is her favorite cheese in the store.
It really does have the depth of flavor of a beautiful cheese.
I found out about this stuff from Gold’s appearance on the Bon Appétit podcast; his mentioning the butter comes within the last couple minutes. I apparently need to see the movie about Gold, having first learned about the man, I believe, from a New Yorker article which documents both the man’s gustatory adventurousness and his function as a food anthropologist:
In April, he announced a recent migration from Mexico’s Distrito Federal. How did he know? You could now get D.F.-style carnitas in Highland Park, “loose and juicy, spilling out of the huge $1.99 tacos like Beyoncé out of a tight jumpsuit.”
In the past year or two, Gold has noticed a surge of new restaurants serving very hot country-style food from Sichuan, a shift that he attributes to migration after the 2008 earthquake.
So three cheers for Jonathan Gold, and three cheers for the butter he loves.